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Climb

The Sport

Bouldering, lead, speed and para climbing explained.

Climbing Escalade Canada is the national governing body for competition climbing in Canada. The sport has three disciplines, Boulder, Lead, and Speed, each testing something different: problem solving and power, endurance and composure, and pure explosive speed. Para-climbing runs alongside them, with classes that let athletes with a range of impairments compete on equal terms.

Boulder

Boulder is climbing short, powerful problems on walls about four and a half metres high, with thick safety mats instead of ropes. Each problem is a puzzle: athletes can’t practise it in advance, and have a few minutes to work out the moves and get to the top, trying as many times as they need.

How it’s scored

Athletes score for reaching the top hold with both hands under control, and for reaching a zone hold partway up. Fewer attempts score higher, so a top on the first try beats a top on the fourth. The athlete with the highest total across all problems wins.

Lead

Lead is climbing as high as possible on a single long route, on walls at least 12 metres high and often 15 or more. Athletes clip their rope into quickdraws as they climb, have six minutes, and get one attempt: a fall ends the climb.

How it’s scored

The score is the highest hold an athlete controls, with a plus added for a controlled move toward the next hold. Clipping the top quickdraw is a top. Ties are broken by results in the previous round.

Speed

Speed is a head-to-head race up a 15-metre wall on a standard route that is identical everywhere in the world, so times can be compared across events and records can be set. The world’s fastest men finish in under five seconds; the fastest women in around six.

How it’s scored

Qualification rounds rank athletes by time, then the top climbers race in a knockout bracket where the first to hit the top pad advances. A false start means immediate disqualification.

Combined and the Olympic Games

Sport climbing joined the Olympic Games at Tokyo 2020, with all three disciplines combined into a single event. At Paris 2024, Speed became its own medal event and Boulder and Lead were combined, with each discipline worth up to 100 points.

Learn more about Canada at the Games on the International & Selection page.

Para-climbing

Para-climbing gives athletes with physical and visual impairments a competitive path in the sport. Athletes are grouped into sport classes so they compete against others with a similar level of impairment:

  • B1, B2, and B3: visual impairment, with a sighted guide calling the route.
  • AU2: upper-limb amputation or limb deficiency.
  • AL1 and AL2: lower-limb amputation or limb deficiency.
  • RP1, RP2, and RP3: impairments affecting range of motion, power, or stability.

Para-climbing competitions are mainly held in Lead. Meet the athletes representing Canada on the Para National Team page.

Recreational and competitive

Every competitive climber starts the same way: in a gym or at a crag, climbing for the fun of it. Most climbers never enter a competition, and they don’t need to. The sport stands on its own as a way to stay fit, solve problems, and be part of a welcoming community.

For those who want to compete, the path is open at every level. Many gyms run in-house and club competitions; provincial and territorial associations run regional series; and CEC runs the youth regional, youth national, and senior national championships that lead to the National Team and international competition.

Ready to start? See Climb to find your way in, or Compete to take the next step.